So, You Want to Be a Wine Merchant?

So, You Want to Be a Wine Merchant?

Written by Joel on April 17 2012

People always think that traveling to Burgundy to taste wine is glamorous and fun. While it's better than selling refrigerators, it is still work. When I was younger, I used to go for ten days, south to north and land running with no concession to jet lag. I would taste 60 wines on average per day, working from 8 A.M. to late at night, tasting and evaluating, even at dinner.

 

One cold February some years back, I was working with a noted Burgundy expert and longtime colleague visiting various growers hoping for wine to buy. Last appointment: Feet ice cubes despite 2 pairs of sox and half-boots, bundled up but still cold in the grower's  unheated, freezing cellar. I didn't know the man, that's not him pictured below, and had never tasted his wines, but I was aware of his reputation. He looked to be in his early 60s, lean and tall, with a long, craggy, wind burned face. When we were introduced he asked me in a guttural Bourgogne dialect, "Vous Comprenez le Francais?" You understand French? I responded, "Oui, Je comprend tout."  Yes, I understand everything. OK, we started the tasting with his Bourgogne Rouge. Nice, good fruit, priced fairly. We went on to some 1er Crus, then a couple of Grand Crus. We were smiling. Good juice, not overly expensive.

 

When courtiers and growers get together, they talk about lots of things, not all of them wine related. I was just waiting to get through with the day while they were both babbling on, I thought inconsequentially. Although my mind was elsewhere, I suddenly heard, out of nowhere, the grower loudly and angrily disparaging various ethnic groups. That ended my reverie. My colleague/friend, the courtier, was horrified. He said, "Arretez vous!" Stop! but the damage had been done! I just looked at the guy but said not a word. Anyway, what could I say to this bigot that might make any difference?
 

As we were heading for the car, I turned to my colleague and said, "Well, you almost made a sale." He looked at me, somewhat sheepishly, and said, "I understand and I don't blame you."